F-14A Tomcat (VF-111 "Sundowners") - HobbyBoss [1/72]

Started 07 January 2012 - Completed 06 February 2012

Intended Livery using FCM #72-040.

Superheat 200

Box and decals

Box and decals

8 January 2012

Removal of parts from sprues (where needed) completed. The parts were then cleaned of any mould seams and attachment residue. Canopy had the mould seams removed and polished, dipped in Klear and will now sit in its tub until needed.

removal from sprues and clean up

Although not mentioned in the instructions, I am adding 5 grams into the nose, as I was half way through CAing the shot into the radome, before I realised and checked - habit I guess.

5gm nose weight

There are no overhead ejection handles provided - either plastic or PE, so I tried to find my old jig to no avail, so rigged a new one using telephone cable holder nails and half a wooden clothes peg.

ejection seat handles

I have modified the wing pivots so I can add the wings after I have finished painting and weathering.

wing pivot modification

Spraying coming next.

10 January 2012

Starting with AlcladII White Primer, I have started spraying bits and pieces.

initial painting

Here we have the exhaust nozzles and shrouds. I have initially sprayed them with a base coat of AlcladII Aluminium and then faded in AlcladII Jet Exhaust on the nozzles. After double checking my references, I realised what had been bugging me - there are no lines on the shrouds. So I shall scribe some in before finishing with the AlcladII colour blending.

exhaust nozzles and shrouds

The wheels were initially sprayed with AlcladII White Primer and then hand painted with Citadel Chaos Black. The nose wheels have a great wheel rim where you can wick thinned paint up to, but the main wheel are not that defined as can be seen by my not so hot painting. Weathering and washes should hide some of it.

wheels painted

The Cockpit, out of the box, is very simple. There are decals (not very accurate and out of register) for the instrument panels, but none for the side consoles.

cockpit base colours and decals

I have painted side panels with Citadel Chaos Black and added some knobs.

cockpit base colours and decals

I will seal with a flat varnish later then dry brush before joining the front fuselage halves.

cockpit base colours and decals

I initially sprayed the insides of the intakes with AlcladII White Primer and have now masked off, primed with AlcladII Grey Primer, ready for the first coat of FS16440, before joining them up.

intakes masked and primed

21 January 2012

Finally there was a break in the weather a few days ago so I managed to get the airbrush going and managed the spray the FS16440 using Xtracrylix #XA1137 (Lt. Gull Grey) in the intakes.

intakes sprayed

intakes sprayed

I then closed up the forward fuselage, adding the nose, and removing the TACAN antenna to aid in the seam cleanup.

forward fuselage closed up

After cleaning up that seam, I then rapidly built up the remainder of the intakes, main fuselage and added the front fuselage. After masking the canopies, I glued on the windscreen and blutac'd the main canopy in place. I stuffed sponge down the intakes and sprayed all components with AlcladII Grey Primer.

The primer highlighted a few areas where I need some extra work doing. These are mainly around the windscreen and the fuselage join on the spine. Hopefully the Tamiya putty I have applied will be suffice.

intakes masked and primed

The other area in need of attention is on the underside of the beavertail.

intakes masked and primed

Also I had scribed some lines into the engine cans.

intakes masked and primed

23 January 2012

The high winds changed direction this afternoon, allowing me to open the window for airbrushing, so I resprayed AlcladII Primer over my repairs, and then sprayed the FS16440 using Xtracrylix #XA1137 (Lt. Gull Grey) overall.

Next step will be a Klear coat (or AlcladII #ALC600 Aqua Gloss), before masking ready for the metallics.

All Lt Gull Grey parts

Windscreen repair

Windscreen repair

Spine repair

Spine repair

Beavertail repair

Beavertail repair

26 January 2012

Using a combination of the AlcladII paints shown I finished off the engines, wing and tail leading edges, gun muzzle and the air intakes. While I was masking for the metallics I also masked up for the antiglare black and the wing bladders.

Alclad's used

Engines - using a combination of AlcladII Aluminium, Pale Burnt Metal, Jet Exhaust and Transparent Smoke.

Engine topside

Engine underside

Air Intakes - AlcladII Aluminium. Gun Muzzle - AlcladII Gunmetal and Transparent Smoke.

Gun and air intakes

29 January 2012

Decalling completed. Two days work using a combination of the FCM decals (Microscale printed) and the kit decals.

Decalling Complete

The FCM decals went on OK except for the No Step and the Red Turbine warning stripes. The No Step decals wanted to fold up on themselves whilst transferring to the wings, and the turbine stripes cracked but held together, just, until I could lay on some Micro Sol.

wing decals

The remainder of the FCM decals were up to the usual Microscale standard, with only the sharksmouth taking the full two days and numerous applications of Micro Sol to get it to lay flat.

sharksmouth

The missiles and the "slime lights" were from the kits sheets, and unlike the cockpit decals were great with hardly any extra clear carrier.

phoenix decals

And to finish off tonights work I added a 1mm lens from little-cars for the nose light, poked 3 holes in the approach indexer, and dropped in green, orange and red paints.

nose gear additions

02 February 2012

I managed to spray a few coats of Klear over all parts to seal in the decals and ready for a panel wash with Flory Models Dark Brown Wash. Once I was happy with the panel line wash, I set about the wing sweep area that gets grimy and dirty.

First off, I mask the area roughly where the wing meets the sealing plates on top, and the airbags underneath when swept back. Also I tend to protect any decals in the area by placing scrap paper over them before applying any masking tape.

masking wing sweep

Then using a pen or pencil, I draw in the contours on top...

masking wing sweep

and below.

masking wing sweep

I then use a new #10 blade to cut away the profiles, and then mask up the remaining wing.

masking wing sweep

masking wing sweep

Next tape down the wing to the workbench...

Wing sweep weathering

and using a mix of Flory Models Dark Brown and Dark Grey washes, apply to the exposed wing.

Wing sweep weathering

Giving it a short time to dry out slightly, using a sponge with a pin in it, rotate around the pin, using the centre of the wing pivot for the pin location, giving a streaked effect.

Wing sweep weathering

Wing sweep weathering

Wing sweep weathering

Wing sweep weathering

Once dried completely, remove the masking tape, show the outlines of the upper lower wear areas.

Wing sweep weathering

Wing sweep weathering

All I need now is for the temperature to pick up a bit so I can spray a Matt varnish to seal everything, ready for final assembly.

06 February 2012

On Sunday, the sun poked his head out enough to raise the temperature over freezing, and allowing me to open my window for spraying. First up I applied a coat of Xtracrylix Flat Varnish.

Once dried, I removed the canopy masking and blu-tac to reveal a crack along side the RIO's moulded-in lightning strip. The crack is not that noticeable, but I summise from this, that the clear plastic is more flexible than the Hasegawa, and needs to be treated more carefully.

I then started to add the langing gear, tails and Phoenix pallets. After removing the Phoenix from their pins the back ends looked a bit blank, so I checked out the Daco book and drilled out the back end and inserted a short length of styrene tube with a disc, to represent the back shown in the photos. A quick brush with Citadel Chainmail finished them off.

The remainder of items were glued on, and finally the wings were snapped into place with the horizontal stabs pushed in their pivot holes.

Completed photos.

Front 3/4 view

Rear 3/4 view

Wings swept forward

Headon

Underside

Cockpit

Nose and cockpit

Sidewinder and Sparrow

Tails and engines

Rear top view

Rear underside

Front underside

Build Complete

Conclusion:- A very nice build, but lacking in some minor details, in the cockpit (side panels mainly). Overall, I would place this as #3, inbetween the Fujimi and Revell, on my list of the best 1/72 scale F-14 Tomcat kits.